CET NEVA ANNUAL REPORT 1999
(click for enlarged photos)
In June several groups of trekkers from Japan, totally about 50 persons, had visited Bezengui and Elbrus regions in the Central Caucasus. Typically tour duration was 9 days (including stay in Petersburg and/or Moscow). Some of tours were performed only in the Bezengui region, and for others the scheduled time was shared between the two regions.
Guide team consisted of CET Neva guides - A. Fetisov, S. Kalmykov, A. Moshnikov (CET Neva director), N. Totmianin; local guide from Bezengui village - A. Akhkubekov; local guides from Terskol (a village at the Elbrus foot) - I. Komarov, avalanche specialist and skier, Elizabeth Pahl, skier, snowboard woman and snowboard teacher and Japanese speaking philologist; Sylwia Kwiecien, interpreter from Japanese.
Ascents of Mt. Elbrus (5642 - 5626 m), the European highest peak
Group of 5 climbers from Spain. CET Neva guide - A. Moshnikov. Two clients with the guide summited Elbrus West (5642 m).
3 climbers from Switzerland with CET Neva guide N. Totmianin had reached the west summit.
August, CET Neva guide - M. Pronin.
Group of 4 Australians. Two of them had reached only saddle point between west and east summits (5300 m ) but two others together with the guide had climbed up the west peak.
Team of 2 climbers from Spain. One of them, together with the guide had made "Cross of Elbrus" - both the summits in the same day, whereas another decided to confine himself with only the west peak and was waiting for two others on the saddle.
A group of 5 aged Japanese - from 40 to 60 years old!, and guides A. Akhkubekov, S. Kalmykov, A. and I. (son) Moshnikovs. All the company had climbed up the Elbrus East (5626 m) at bad weather conditions. "Snow cat" had been used up to altitude of 5000 m. In Piatigorsk (small town on the Northern Caucasus), Igor Komarov, the local habitant, headed sightseeing tour.
Expedition into region of
Peaks I.Samani-Communism (7495 m) and Korjenevskaya (7105 m), Central Pamir (July -
(the former Peak Communism had been renamed to Peak Ismail Samani in the fall of 1998 by Tajikistan Government decision)
The expedition consisted of two client groups, 7 Spaniards and 6 climbers from France, and CET Neva guides: A. Moshnikov - expedition leader, V. Volodin, V. Vysotskii, I. Moshnikov. Last summer the weather conditions were continuously unstable and bad over the Pamirs. This is why the ex-Communism summit had not been reached. During the August following ascents were made:
The Spanish group - Peak Vorobieva: 6 clients + both Moshnikovs + Volodin; Peak of Fours: 7 clients with the same guides; Peak Korjenevskaya top: one client and both Moshnikovs.
The French group - all the six with Vysotskii as the guide had reached summits of Peak Vorobiev and Peak of Fours, 5 French climbers + Vysotskii had been on the Korjenevskaya top.
Expedition to Peak Lenin (7134 m), Zaalaiskii Range, Pamirs, July - August
Composition: 6 climbers-skiers from France, 3 Spaniards, one traveller from South Africa; CET Neva guides - S. Kalmykov - expedition leader, E. Emelyanov, A. Fetisov.
The weather was not good as well as in the other Pamirs.
The gentleman from South Africa confined himself with hiking within vicinities of the Base Camp (3600 m) up to altitudes about 4500 m. Both the Spanish group and the French one made three ascents from BC. The highest altitude reached by the Spaniards amounted to 6400 m. In their second climb, 5 French members ascended 7000 m, and in the third one 3 of them accompanied by Kalmykov had reached the top. All of them used ski both upwards and downwards. Three summiters skied from the summit cairn along the ascent route just down to BC, because after two day blizzard even the Alai valley was covered by snow and several tents in BC were squashed with its load.
Diagram altitude reached vs dates for
the French team:
blue capitals substitute climbers' names, BC and roman numerals - camps, # - bivouac enforced by blizzard, S - summit
Expedition to Pobeda (Victory Peak, 7439 m - the world northernmost "seven-thousander") and Khan-Tengri (7010 m), Central Tian-Shan
Two French and two Spanish climbers; CET Neva guide - N. Totmianin.
Implementing the tour, the guide had ascended to the Khan-Tengri top two times! - August 5 with both Spaniards and August 9 with two Frenchmen.
August 19 joined group of one French and two Spain climbers led by Totmianin summited Peak Pobeda.
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