Expedition to Muztagh-Ata (7546 m), normal route from the West



Schematic of the way from Bishkek (capital of Kirghizia) to Kashgar.

Route of the ascent (schematic).

Photo: view of Muztagh-Ata from the West, route of the ascent.

In local languages (the Kazakh and the Uigur, both are Turkish dialects) "Muz-Tagh-Ata" means literally "Ice Mountain's Father". First tries to climb up Muztagh-Ata were made in 1894 by Swedish geographist Sven Hedin from the West. In two of four his attempts he reached altitude of 6300 m. In 1947 famous British climbers E. Shipton and H. Tilman along with sirdar Gyalzen Sherpa could arrive to the summit dome at some 7000 m. The first historic ascent of the Muztagh-Ata summit had been realized in 1956 by Soviet-China expedition led by Eugene Beletsky following the route outlined by Hedin. The way is not difficult technically and good for not very competent mountaineers. But because of high altitudes above the sea all along the route, participants should be well prepared physically.

Possible program of the Muztagh-Ata'2004 expedition

Day 1 – Arrival to Bishkek, capital of the Kirghizstan. Overnight in a guest house.
Day 2 – Drive to Naryn, 7-8 hours. Overnight in yurts.
Day 3 – Drive to Torugart Pass, 5-6 hours; crossing the Kirghizstan-China border; drive to Kashgar, 3-4 hours; overnight in a hotel.
Day 4 – Drive to Karakul Lake and then to Subashi village, 5-6 hours; walk with pack-camels to Muztagh-Ata Base Camp (BC, 4450m), 3-4 hours.
Days 5 to 25 – Acclimatization period, summit climb, reserve days.
Day 26 – Walk down with pack-camels to Subashi, then drive to Kashgar. Night in the hotel.
Day 27 – Day in Kashgar, excursions, shopping.
Day 28 – Drive to Torugart Pass, crossing the border, drive to Naryn. Night in yurts.
Day 29 – Drive to Bishkek, night in the guest house.
Day 30 – Transfer to airport. Return home.

Expedition period: June - September.

Price of participation in 10-member expedition for each participant: €1455.

The price includes:
1. Invitation necessary for Kirghiz double entry visa and Chinese visa, Xinjiang registration fee, climbing permit and other fees and charges.
2. Meeting in the airport, accomodation in Bishkek (guest house, hotel double-room), airport-hotel and back transfers.
3. Bus/truck transportation Bishkek-Kashgar-Subashi and back with payed boundary crossing.
4. 2 nights in yurts and 3-night hotel accommodation in Kashgar (B&B, double rooms).
5. Rent of pack-camels for Subashi-BC and back.
6. In the Base Camp:
    3 meals a day;
    sleeping tents;
    big mess tent with all its equipment;
    gas stove and cooking set;
    Chinese cook;
    food for Chinese personnel.
7. Chinese liaison officer/interpreter.
8. CET Neva guide and overhead expenses.

The price does not include:
cost of visas, Bishkek and back air-fare, Bishkek airport tax (US$10), insurance, mountaineering equipment and high altitude tents, porters and other personal expenses, unexpected premature evacuation.