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Matterhorn: the 1st winter ascent on the Hornli Ridge by the Russian team
(January 5 to 10, 2005)

Ivan Moshnikov

Each climber dreams of bagging such a famous peak as the Matterhorn, everybody dreams... Three times Anatoly was quite in the way of setting out on Matterhorn but each time journeys were postponed due to different reasons. Victor, highly qualified climber formerly, dreamt to return back into the mountains after 20-year break. Eugene, last winter having climbed up Mont Blanc as a member of the CET Neva team, hoped to realize his father's dream (in the past Yury Beilin was keen and skilled climber). Each of them dreamt of his own but actually all of them dreamt of the same – to plunge into the mountain world...

At last, booking rooms in hotels, acquiring flight tickets, getting visas have been left behind. Behind was the Swiss consul, wonder-struck, nevertheless he granted visas to three Russian madmen. Behind were preparations combined with New Year's fuss. And now we are en route...

Surprisingly good weather accompanied us in our climbs, miraculous views were spreading beneath our feet, and time and again we tried to find ourselves at the border of the beautiful and the madness...

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