Anatoly Moshnikov, October 7, 2000
Greetings to everybody and last news from Yosemities.
During the second stage teams have climbed up following routes:
Flight of the Albatross
It was Peter [St.-Petersburg (russian slang) - S.K.] (Verulashvili, Kachkov) who had started first. The team from Magnitogorsk (Igolkin-Oleinikov) had joined them just behind and the second team from Magnitka [Magnitogorsk - S.K.] (Soldatov, Zaitov) was following after. The route (first ascent by John Middendorf and Will Ox in 1993) has 31 pitches VI 5.8 A3 totally, one of them being A4/C4 and other 5 - A3/C3. Its competition rating is taken to be equal 5.5.
The sequence of the events was thrilling: SPb [St.-Petersburg - S.K.] had the route completed for 4 days, then M1 [first Moscow team - S.K.] - for 3.5, and Zaitov-Soldatov rope team had been finishing after them like sprinters - 3 days!
The mixed [international - S.K.] rope team had chosen a more difficult route, Atlantic Ocean Wall - VI 5.9 A4, rating = 6. It means 26 pitches totally, 3 of them are classified as A4/C4 and other 6 - as A3/C3. First climb - 1985, John Middendorf and John Barbella.
And just now Moscow (Lastochkin - Akhmedkhanov) catches their tail: Seregin-Alex had been climbing up for 4 days but the Moscow has demonstrated the same result (however, having beaten their own tactical plan for climbing that route).
The second Moscow team (Pekhterev, Pankov), modest, claimed for and passed along standard route on Half Dome - Northwest Face Direct,, VI 5.10 A3+, rating = 4.5.
So, after torturous counting points, the team has lined up as follows:
1. Magnitka (Soldatov-Zaitov). The first stage - 12.78 points, referee penalties for the first stage - 0.1 (no penalties). The second stage - 15.16, 0.1. Total = 27.94.
2. SPb (Verulashvili, Kachkov) - 12.96 (0.1) + 14.16 (0.1); Total = 27.12.
3. Moscow (Lastochkin - Akhmedkhanov) - 13.01 (0.09) + 14.09 (0.07); Total = 27.10.
4. The mixed (Seregin-Alex) - 12.36 (0.08) + 14.56 (0.1) = 26.92.
5. Magnitka-2 (Igolkin-Oleinikov) - 11.13 (0.08) + 14.66 (0.1) = 25.79.
6. Moscow-2 (Pekhterev, Pankov) - 11.95 (0.08) + 12.28 (0.1) = 24.23.
Chunovkin, G. A.,
Lazarev, V. P.,
Fedotov, Yu. N.,
Ivanov A. V. (master of sport, Magnitogorsk).
Having the results assessed, the Magnitka team [the second one - S.K.] decided to see the struggle out. It proposed to put off the dead-line [returning time to Camp 4 - S.K.] up to October 9, i.e. to prolong the agreed competition term by a half day. Naturally, other participants voted against. And then, at the same day October 5, the Magnitka got desperately to start anyway. By October 6 the guys had 10 pitches climbed. If they manage to finish before 16:00 October 8 they will definitely have been winners. In any case this is a manly decision.
About other things: it's a little bit cool. Guys took unnecessary water on routes, someones were drawing 8 liters, others - up to 13 extra liters. Number of people in Camp 4 is decreasing. Many rope teams are suspended on the wall, though there are less of them on Half Dome, probably, one-two. Our people begins to dissipate. Not all of them are content with the results, with refereeing, by themselves. However, will be later about this.